When a Cooper’s Hawk conceals himself in the brush near the bird feeders, all but one or two of the birds are immediately aware of him and scatter for cover. Occasionally a downy woodpecker, still as a marble stature, hides behind a suet feeder. There’s an eerie, quiet sense of anticipation in the air.
Cooper’s Hawk Looking For An Easy Meal
Last August, we were visiting relatives and fellow birders in Madison, Wisconsin. My tripod, gimbal head, and DSLR camera with 500mm lens were set up on their balcony. I had my longest lens attached because I was hoping to photograph some warblers I had noticed the previous evening on the prairie grasses below.
An immature Cooper’s Hawk (greenish/yellow eyes and a brown cap; adults have red eyes.) surprised us by perching close on a balcony ledge. He came in, seemingly unafraid of the 3 humans on the balcony, to investigate the bird feeders and swallow nests under the deck roof.
The Coop landed a little too close for my long lens, but there was no time to swap out lenses. I swiveled the camera, focused and pressed down that shutter. With the viewfinder stuffed, I was able to get off 20 or so shots as the hawk moved about on the balcony ledge. The hawk flew off after a minute or two because a couple of swallows, in an effort to protect their nest, were mercilessly dive-bombing and smacking him on the head.
Hawks That Hunt At Feeders
This young Cooper’s Hawk just flew in – no sneaking up, no attack plan, just landed. Perhaps he was checking out the vulnerability of the nests or just getting a better view of the feeder layout.
Cooper’s Hawks are regular visitors at the feeders. They are about the size of a large crow- females typically 35% larger. Quiet, nimble, stealthy and fast, Cooper’s Hawks are able to navigate through dense woodlands to ambush their prey. Near feeders, they usually swoop down from a hidden location toward the feeding song birds and take advantage of the confusion to capture their victim. Occasionally, during the ruckus, a fleeing bird will crash into a window and become momentarily stunned. Easy pickings for the hawk.
Photographing this Cooper’s Hawk had me wishing (again) that I owned a telephoto zoom lens. Sometimes a large bird is just too close to the camera and there’s no time to change lenses. See this post about photographing a too close bald eagle.
This Red Tailed Hawk is all curves as he poses for the camera. Anthropomorphically, I interpret this pose as being coy… you know….artfully modest to the point of being alluring. Lots of curves can make for an elegant composition. They add energy, movement, and balance to the photo.
Of course, in both of the striking poses below, this Red-Tailed Hawk was just caught in the act of preening his feathers. Still, the poses lend themselves to interesting and human centric interpretations.
For now though, I’m going to focus on exposure issues.
Photos Bathed in Harsh, Unbalanced Light
The late morning sun was at the hawk’s back and to my right. When I looked through the viewfinder, I could see a few details, but for the most part, the bird was a dark silhouette against a bright background. He was busy preening, so as long as I didn’t make any sudden movements, I thought the hawk would tolerate my presence.
I had some time to think about how to adjust exposure to ameliorate the harsh light; and that got me thinking about taking the time to fiddle with the camera’s Automatic Exposure Compensation (AEC) Function.
I learned something new about the quirkiness of my Canon’s Automatic Exposure Compensation function.
Understanding Exposure Compensation
3 parameters control exposure: ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed
If you believe your camera’s sensor is misreading the light, you have options that will force your camera to override its sensor readings and interpret the light more accurately. (Assuming you don’t want to make the exposure corrections in post processing).
Overriding Your Camera’s Sensor Readings
There are two common ways to over ride sensor readings:
YOU manually re-adjust all exposure settings (aperture, shutter and/or ISO). This is done when your camera is set to Manual “M”.
Set the Automatic Exposure Compensation (AEC) function to temporarily over ride sensor readings. With a little help from you, the camera will calculate and then shift exposure settings. To do this, you must set your camera to one of the creative modes (“P” Program, “AV” Aperture Priority, “TV” Shutter Priority, “A+” Intelligent Auto) and then apply the Automatic Exposure Compensation function. (See specifics about how to set Automatic Exposure Compensation at this post.)
Canon Makes It Confusing
The Automatic Exposure Compensation functionality in Canon Cameras seems to me very peculiar.
I had mistakenly assumed the AEC function on my DSLR worked in Manual “M” Mode as long as I set the camera to Auto ISO. After all, the camera could adjust exposure compensation by changing the ISO. However, on most Canon Cameras, setting the AEC function does nothing at all when the camera is set to “M” Manual mode. The AEC function on the camera will not work because it will not over ride the M manual settings (aperture, shutter, ISO) the photographer has set, even if the photographer set the camera to determine the ISO (Auto ISO).
NOTE: One exception: The top of the line, professional DSLR (EOS-1D X) is the first Canon DSLR that will allow AEC in Manual mode with ISO Auto.
Auto ISO Should Not Be a “M” Manual Setting
Manual “M” mode is technically only really “manual” when the photographer is in control of all 3 exposure parameters (ISO, Aperture, Shutter). With Canon DSLR cameras, the photographer can set the ISO to “Auto ISO” even when the camera is in Manual “M” Mode.
But, if the camera is automatically making exposure decisions by adjusting the ISO, how is that Manual “M” Mode?
The problem is one of labeling. A less confusing way for Canon to manage this would be to assign the manual setting FULL control of exposure (ISO, shutter and aperture) and include another setting …perhaps an “ISO preferred” mode.
Control is an Illusion
I never did get the exposure right in this photo shoot. The Redtailed Hawk was less patient then I thought he would be and flew off after 5 minutes or so.
I have to keep reminding myself that in the art of bird photography, and in most other things in life, control is an illusion.
I was driving north on Lakeshore Drive on a late September early morning when I saw this Merlin Falcon perched on my raptor tree. I parked my car as close to the edge of the dune as I dared….illegally as I was facing the lane designated for southbound traffic. To avoid a flurry of activity that might scare the bird, I had set my big lens on the open window ledge when I first saw him, 200 feet back. The second I turned off the car, I was ready to shoot.
Powerful and Aggressive Birds
The Merlin had just started to dine on a Song Sparrow, pulling out feathers with his claws and beak and scattering them to the wind. As I watched him over the next 10 minutes, he methodically but indelicately consumed his prey. His raptor talons ripped gruesomely into the body, disconnecting the head. For better access to the soft underbelly, the Merlin lifted the sparrow with his beak and swung it around to reposition it on the perch. With that sharp, hooked upper beak, he pierced deep into the juicy organ morsels. It was a bloody scene but I did not turn away, even for a moment.
Specialized Hunters of Birds
Merlins are fierce, powerful little raptors that specialize in hunting and feeding on other birds. Not much bigger than a Blue Jay, they use their speed and agility (and open claws) to knock their prey out of the sky. They then finish the job with bites to the neck and spinal cord. This Merlin must have caught and killed the Sparrow and dragged it back to the perch just minutes before.
This bold little predator was not about to leave his meal, though he did keep a close watch on me. I had time to take 150+ shots with my 500mm lens with 2x extender attached. The Merlin’s perch on the dead tree was at eye level with the camera and lens. However, details suffered because of the distance between lens and relatively small bird. The morning sun was behind me, low in the east. The tall trees behind me blocked its intensity, forcing me to use a rather high ISO. By the time I took my last shot, the sun was just beginning to rise above the tree line, allowing me to take the ISO down to 1000.
Cleaning Up After the Feast
After the Merlin was finished, he left the remains (a clump of feathers and bones) on the perch and jumped to a lower, cleaner branch. With his talons, breast and beak still bloody from his meal, he began swiping his beak from side to side on the branch to clean away the remains of the feast. He then did a few minutes of feather cleanup and maintenance and he was off.
Migratory Photo Opportunities
Only during Spring and Fall migration are we lucky enough to see Merlin Falcons along the lakeshore. Not surprisingly, they follow other birds’ migratory coastal routes. I have high hopes to see and photograph at least one Peregrine Falcon as it passes through to its wintering grounds. My camera will be at the ready in my car through November.
Birds Feasting on Birds
It is always more fascinating to photograph birds engaged in some kind of activity (flying, feeding, mating, fighting, nesting, etc) rather than just majestically perching and posing. This is the first time I’ve had the opportunity to photograph a bird eating another bird. It was captivating! Merlins are fast and efficient killing machines, but they can also be prey for owls and the larger raptors. I bet Merlins are not an easy meal to take.
To learn more about my raptor tree on the shores of southern Lake Michigan, see this post.
To see my Merlin Falcon photos from last Fall, see this post.
It was very early. The sun had yet to peak over the trees when I was driving down Lakeshore Drive. From a distance, I saw the eagle in the dead tree that I (and most of the crows in the area) have designated as my hotspot for seeing raptors.
Always Bring That Camera
I always try to bring my camera with me, even if I’m running errands. It is a hassle and most of the time it stays in the bin, but once in a while I get lucky. This was one of those mornings. My new 500mm f/4.0 Canon lens was attached to the camera, along with a 2x teleconverter. I positioned my camera on the door window ledge and rode the car brake, slowly approaching the tree. I wanted to begin shooting immediately.
Prime Lens or Zoom
I knew the minute I stopped the car that I was too close for the extender. I took a dozen or so tight body shots with the extender attached so I wouldn’t miss the shot entirely if the eagle bolted. These are such big birds. I had to rotate the camera and lens (90 degrees) to portrait mode to get the whole bird in the shot. Not difficult as long as I had the car door window upon which to rest the heavy lens. I then quickly removed the 2x extender. NOTE: Even without the extender attached I was still close enough to clip the eagle’s wings as he leaped from the branch. This would have been a great time to have a zoom lens.
Essential Lens for Bird Photographers
Birds around Southwest Michigan are neither tame nor trusting. Consequently, a good 500 mm lens, preferably with image stabilization, is essential equipment for serious photographers. This prime monster lens doesn’t have the magnification range and convenience of a zoom lens for image composition, but it makes up for it with stellar optical quality. The distance allows you to get natural looking shots with beautiful backgrounds. Removing an unneeded 2x extender as I had to in this photo shoot took only seconds.
Let me clarify what I mean by “distance”. You still have to get fairly close with this lens – within 50 feet, preferably closer, to get optimal results. The farther the distance between your lens and the bird, the more you will have to deal with image quality degradation. The Canon 1.4x and 2.0 extenders do an excellent job adding that extra reach. The image quality on the extenders is very good, but both extenders (especially the 2x) slow down focusing speed. See this post for more information on extenders.
Zoom Lens v Prime Lens for Bird Photography
For bird photography, I own 300mm and 500mm lenses. I love the quality and precision of prime lenses, but, I have to admit, sometimes I wish I had a quality zoom lens. Canon makes a 200-400 F/4L zoom lens with a built in 1.4x extender, giving the lens a range of 280-560mm (f/5.6) on my DSLR. This means optimal versatility when out in the field photographing birds, especially in situations were it is difficult or unwise to attach or detach an extender. This zoom won’t give me the reach I have with my 500mm with 2x extender attached, but it could replace my 300mm. Something for me to think about if I can get past the sticker shock.
The Canon 200-400 f/4L zoom with IS is not cheap. $11,799. See this B&H link for more information and reviews.
I’ve been in a rut lately. During my birding expeditions this winter, I haven’t got out of my car once. I’ve missed some good shots too due to the restrictive nature of my small car. You can only stretch a head, body and camera so much. Had I just grabbed my camera and got out of the car to position the camera for the shot, it would have been easier and I might have missed fewer shots. Instead I stayed in the car and contorted my head, arms and camera to reach my target from the open window – giving myself very little maneuverability and even less dignity.
For some reason, I was clinging to the notion that all birds would be less likely to bolt if I hid quietly with my camera inside my 3000 lb car. After all, getting out of the car can cause quite a commotion… powering down the car, grabbing the camera, door opening, door closing and then propping the camera up to shoot. And what if I get cold?
Get Out of Your Comfort Zone to Photograph Birds
Well, it took me awhile, but last week I concluded that photographing from within the car was not the best strategy to capture photos of the rough legged hawk. There were way too many missed shots, and those I did manage to get were all tail feathers. I had to try something different.
Often, photographers must give limited chase when photographing birds – and chasing a soaring bird can not be done on foot. They fly too far, too fast. To locate birds and keep up with them, you need a vehicle. My strategy on this early March morning was to use my car to look for these elusive hawks in the usual places. Once I spotted one within fairly close proximity, I would quickly park and get out of the car with my camera.
After driving up and down the country roads where I had missed so many shots, I spotted two “roughies”….. and they spotted me. Both raptors watched me get of my car with my camera and slowly walk toward them. It is true that these hawks were not about to let me come too close to their perching spot, by car or on foot. But, when they did lift off, they didn’t fly away from me. They doubled back and flew toward the camera. Showing no fear, both glided over me at a close range, and then circled back again to get another look. Their airborne confidence gave me the time and maneuverability I needed to lift that camera toward the sky and start shooting. (NOTE: I relied heavily on my len’s image stabilizer to steady the shot. See this post for more information on the importance of IS technology.) I could have never taken these in-flight shots of these beautiful raptors from within my car.
Rough Legged Hawks Wintering in Michigan
Rough Legged Hawks (named because of their feathered legs- a cold climate adaptation) are arctic raptors that generally leave the Canadian tundra in late Fall and fly south to northern parts of the United States. For the most part, these rugged raptors are not to be found in the lower 48 states during the summer months.
Here’s a link to the eBird Tracking map showing the Rough Legged Hawk’s Migratory Pattern. From this map, it looks like they head south sometime in November, mostly to the northwestern parts of the United States, and then return back to their northern Canadian breeding grounds around April.
Walking With My Camera
Spring is here. In Michigan, that means it’s still likely to be cold and frosty in the mornings, at least until June. Despite the cold weather, I plan to bundle up and spend much of my time walking with my camera and monopod on my shoulder, looking for a large variety of curious birds willing to venture within shooting distance of my camera. After all, it’s Spring. I’m hoping that the birds will be focused on other pursuits besides fleeing from me.
It was a dreary, cold morning and I was rather wishing that I would not have to open the car window to the -15 degree windchill outside. But then, I spotted an unfamiliar hawk perched on a utility cable, and that window went down in a flash.
I feel sensations of both anxiety and excitement when I have to transition from driver to photographer as quickly and safely as possible. The anxiety comes from worrying that the bird will fly away before I can be ready with the camera. The excitement comes from imagining the possibilities and enjoyment to be had from photographing an unknown bird.
I pulled off the busy highway and positioned the car as best I could for distance and safety. The heavy traffic kept barreling down the highway, creating buffeting winds that rocked the car and probably the hawk. The passing semi trucks regularly interrupted the scene in my view finder, throwing off the camera’s automatic focus.
100+ Photographs in Minutes
I managed to take a 100+ shots (moving the camera as best as I could, mixing up the exposure settings for a little variety) before the hawk flew off in the opposite direction. (Sadly, only tail feathers in the departure shots.) Since I was confined to my car on a busy highway and had very little flexibility to be creative, I knew that most of the photos would look very similar.
Still, a red shouldered hawk in winter is a rare sighting for me, a story to tell, so I was excited.
Choosing the Best Photographs to Share
When I got home, I began post processing these photos. Barely moving from one shot to the next, the hawk was captured fluffing his feathers out against the wind, blinking, shuffling his feet, watching for possible prey, and watching me. Given that there was not much variety and a very short story to be told here, I decided to choose the two most revealing captures.
A Picture is Worth A Thousand Words
I have friends and relatives who will occassionally send me a web link that leads to hundreds of snapshots (of siblings, newborns, children, grandchildren, dogs, relatives, birds, sunsets, weddings, etc). Once I click the link, it is evident that no effort has been made to go through and eliminate the photos that fall into the blurry, poorly composed, eyes shut, irrelevant, unflattering, over exposed, under exposed, embarrassing, and stupid categories.
I will be the first to admit that, when it comes to photography, I can, at times, be too critical and hard to impress. My plan when I receive these links is to keep my thoughts to myself. However, when the sender asks what I think about her hoard of snapshots, I have to tell her that it is just too overwhelming and discouraging to plow through so many unorganized photos.
Manage Your Photos as You Would A Rough Draft
Photos, whether taken from a point and shoot camera or DSLR camera, tell a story. Retelling that story well (whether you are a professional photographer or just sharing photos out of the kindness of your heart) requires that the photographer look through her cache for the essence of the story, (and perhaps for buried treasure) and determine how that story will unfold. An excessive number of unorganized photos is like excessive narrative: redundant, boring, and soon forgotten.
Get Rid of Photographic Clutter
Help your audience and get rid of the photographic clutter before you share. If necessary, include captions or a short introduction to entice your viewers. Be intentional and choose the very few photos that best convey the mood, the idea, the beauty, the wonder, the emotion, and the relationships of the story you are sharing.
The best part is that people may actually look at your story…and you just may become a better story teller and photographer.
Just a few days ago, I was lucky enough to photograph this beautiful adult bald eagle perched on a tree branch near my home. Coming across this majestic wild raptor with my camera at hand was a thrill.
Merry Christmas to all my fellow bird lovers and photographers out there. Sharing my photographic adventures with you is a privilege I look forward to every week.
When I upgraded to my current 300mm, 2.8 lens, I just assumed that my current tripod head was sufficient to sturdily hold my lens and camera on my tripod. It wasn’t until I attached my camera, new 300 mm lens, and 2x extender onto my tripod and joystick head that I realized that my camera perch was too wobbly for comfort.
These days, photographers do not mount their DSLR’s directly onto a tripod. The tripod serves to make the camera stable, but the tripod head and plate are what allow the secure hold of the equipment, quick attach and release capability and the smooth panning movement photographers must have when photographing birds out in the field.
The original tripod head that was not up to the task of managing my new long lens was called a “joystick” head. I had always been pleased with this head because it allowed me to safely swivel the camera and lens in a 180 degree circle. The joystick head still works fine when the camera is attached to a medium or short focal length lens. It is just not designed to securely hold my heavy 300mm lens.
Photographers’ Equipment – Weight Considerations
Load capacity for my joystick head is rated at 5.5 pounds. A little quick arithmetic.
4.5 pounds -Canon DSLR camera without lens
5.2 pounds -300 mm 2.8 lens
Clearly, it was time to purchase something more suitable to support the weight of my bird photography camera and lens on my tripod.
Gimbal Heads For Photographing Wildlife
After much research, I finally decided that a “Gimbal” head would be the best tool to hold my camera securely and allow for quick and easy maneuvering of heavy lenses.
What I like about my new Gimbal tripod head:
Allows for tracking birds fast – both vertically and horizontally.
Quick release capability
Stays put when I’m not moving it – amazingly agile for cumbersome camera/lens equipment.
Holds up to 11 pounds… 15 lbs if necessary.
Getting Out of the Car to Photograph
Birds are easier to photograph when the photographer is in a car. Not only is it more comfortable for the photographer, but many birds are acclimated to vehicles and consequently less fearful of what’s going on inside the vehicle.
In order to test out this the new tripod head, I had to get out of the car, choose a good location, and setup the equipment. The Gimbal head has different tightening knobs for horizontal and vertical movement and it takes some practice to be able to turn the right knob as needed to track birds quickly.
While I’m clumsily setting up and getting use to the new Gimbal, I can see that the birds are not comfortable with all the commotion I’m making and are either flying away or thinking about flying away.
Tracking Red Tailed Hawks in Flight
Over several days, I tracked these red tailed hawks with the new Gimbal tripod head attached to my tripod. Below is a photo of a red tailed hawk watching me haul the equipment out of the car and setup the camera on the tripod. He is definitely looking kind of worried- so I tried to hurry, knowing he was about to take off.
And there he goes…..
Wind Hovering Hawk
On another day, in another location, I saw another Red Tailed Hawk facing into the wind and hovering without flapping over the Lake Michigan dune. He is clearly looking for a meal below in the dune brush. This hawk remained relatively stationary in very high winds, long enough for me to set up the equipment and practice with the Gimbal head.
Below is a photo of a different hawk (presumably- altho maybe not), on a different day, different location, but with that same wary look. This time he can’t resist looking at me as I pan his flight with the Gimbal tripod head.
First Impressions of the Gimbal Head
I found it a little disappointing that the Gimbal head will not track precisely at an angle, so if a bird is rising in the sky or coming down, the tracking is not as easy as the joystick head. I also haven’t been able to position the camera in portrait mode on this Gimbal head… at least not so far.
I finally figured out that I can position the vertical and horizontal knobs on the Gimbal so there’s just a little tension in each. This allows me to quickly swivel the camera up, down, left or right because the tension is tight enough so the camera doesn’t move without me directing it, but is still loose enough for me to track movement without additional knob adjustment.
Overall, I think this new Gimbal will be a valuable tool once I get use to it. The camera and lens feel much sturdier, and I’m less worried that my equipment will come crashing down due to too much weight.
When I see bald eagles, they are usually soaring high on the thermals or perching stoically on a branch. I have never seen these birds animated or agitated. Until now.
Crows are like sentries, constantly on guard protecting their territory. If I see them in the sky circling and cawing loudly, I know that there’s an eagle or other raptor nearby. This young eagle was reacting to seven or eight crows that were “mobbing” him in an effort to chase him out of their territory. Pretty fierce looking!
The crows appeared to be working in teams, one group of crows squawking and harassing from a close (but safe?) distance, the other group of crows dive bombing the eagle from the opposite side.
Two problems surfaced during this shoot, both unavoidable. It’s been my experience that both problems are not uncommon for bird photographers.
Problem #1
Is There Time to Change the Lens?
I always like to get as close as I can to the bird I’m photographing because the farther the distance, the more sharpness suffers. Most of the time, my problem is that the bird is too far away. When I came across this juvenile bald eagle, he was perched above my head, but within good reach of the 2x extender attached to my 300mm lens.
In fact, he was a little too close. The image filled more than 50% of my viewfinder, impossible for me to get the eagle and the crows in the same shot. Shooting from my car window, with my lens pointing up, I had very little flexibility to frame the shots.
If the viewfinder is too full – too stuffed – the resulting photo will look like it. If you’re in a car and can’t risk moving back, should you take the time to change the lens configuration, or just go on shooting?
Quick Decisions Necessary When Photographing Birds
I use the following guidelines to determine if there is time to swap out (or swap in) a different lens or extender:
Does the bird appear to be unperturbed with your presence?
Are there any other people around who may raise the bird’s level of anxiety?
Are there any harassing or predatory birds around that may cause your subject to fly off?
Is the photographer parked in a safe spot on the road?
Poof! He’s Gone
There were 3 or 4 people walking on the road watching the scene. Loud, harassing crows were everywhere. Consequently, I felt compelled to use the lens and extender at hand and take advantage of the short window of time that the bird would remain photographable. I reasoned that it was better NOT to risk missing the shots. It turned out that there was no time.The bird was gone in less than 3 minutes.
Two Available Cameras Would Be Nice
The best (and most expensive) solution to solving the bird to camera distance problem is to have a second camera and lens available. That’s right, bring along 2 heavy, full frame, professional cameras equipped with different lenses on every shoot. Then, when you see a bird you want to photograph, you eyeball the distance and quickly grab the camera/lens that would work the best. You have to decide whether the two camera solution is a necessity, a convenience, or just overkill. (BTW, I would love to have 2 cameras available to me.)
Problem #2
Unsightly Background Debris in Photographs
During this shoot, the eagle’s behavior was compelling, but he was surrounded with branches that seem to grow out of his head and shoulders. Given that my lens was pointing up, I’m not sure I could have eliminated much of this background debris by moving to a different spot. Plus, I would be risking a disturbance. Not much to be done, except pass up the shot. Rarely am I willing to do that.
As you can see, I was able to do some post processing repair to eliminate the unsightly branches on all but the last photo.
Adult bald eagles have bright yellow eyes; the younger the eagle, the more brown the eyes. Judging by the deep brown color of this eagle’s eyes, he is probably quite young.
The job of post processing debris removal in photography is not one that I’m good at. Lightroom 5 has some advanced tools to help with this chore. I plan to spend a lot of time this winter getting more proficient at this task.
Banded Immature Eagle
The photo directly above and the close-up photo below show that this young bird was banded. Bird banding is a way to study the movement and survival of birds. Federal agencies in US and Canada coordinate these activities. NOTE: The close-up below reminds me of Rhodan’s claw in an old monster movie.
One Crow Too Many
One day, one harassing crow too many will cause an eagle to snap, and that eagle will go after the crows with a vengeance. I hope I’m there with my camera to capture the action.
When I saw my first American Kestrel, I was enthralled. Beautiful and graceful little hawks, no bigger than mourning doves, but quick and ferocious. A kestrel can be distinguished from other falcons by the two black, vertical lines on both sides of its face.
Foliage Background and Wingtip Clarity
My goal for this shoot was to photograph kestrels in flight with a melt-away foliage background. While blue sky is certainly prettier than gray or white, a solid color background is often less interesting than foliage or dramatic, multi-colored skies.
One of my challenges was to freeze movement on the flying kestrel, not just in head and body, but clear up to the wingtips. That meant getting close, using a fast shutter and hoping the sun would provide strong, ambient light. NOTE: See blog post about bokeh here.
Birds in Flight, Flying Low
Avoiding the sky and the horizon line in the background of a flying bird took planning and some luck. The kestrels had to be flying rather low.
The opportunity presented itself when I saw two kestrels hunting for grasshoppers in a cut field, flying down to the ground to snatch a grasshopper and then up again to a low branch to devour it.
The background was a soft gold from cut corn stalks with some green, leafy tree branches. The sun was behind me and to my right. Nothing in the background was too busy or distracting. (Busy backgrounds could cause the camera’s autofocus to continually search back and forth in an effort to lock focus on the subject, preventing the photographer from successfully pressing the shutter. For more information on focus, see this Post.)
Moving Closer to Photograph Kestrels
Kestrels are very cautious and usually fly off if they see a human lurking about. I started photographing the kestrels from the car, but the distance between the camera and bird was too great to get a decent shot. I eventually got out of my car with my camera and tripod and moved about slowly, letting them get use to me, hoping they would not leave. I kept moving closer, slowly, about 10 steps at a time, at an angle, never coming right at them. Each time I move 10 steps, I stopped, took more shots, and moved closer again.
They were watchful, but tolerated me, until I passed some hidden but forbidden barrier. And they were gone.
Ambient Light Was Not Strong
Southwest Michigan is not blessed with a lot of sunny days. I did not have the light I needed to keep a fast shutter and low ISO. I ended up shooting with higher ISO than I wanted, and further away than I had hoped, and thus sacrificed tack sharp clarity.
Getting Closer to Photograph Birds
I did, however, accomplish my goals of photographing kestrels with an interesting background and freezing the action to the wing tips.
As with most shoots, I would have liked to get closer to the birds. Clearly, I’m too conspicuous, despite my attempts to move slowly and blend. It might be time to look into buying a bird blind.